Fashion in the European Renaissance

Renaissance Fashion

During The Renaissance, fashion from both Italian and Germanic designers had their influence over European clothing. Each brought something new and exciting to the world of Renaissance fashion.

In the Renaissance popular fashion styles ranged from wide, to barrel-shaped and square fashions.

Clothing then, as now, was a "status" symbol. However it was an even bigger status symbol during the renaissance. Fashion for the wealthy often meant spending a majority of their money on clothing and it was not uncommon for them to literally be 'wearing their wealth'. Darker colors of fabrics became popular to show off the embroidery or jewels that were sewn onto the clothing. The more elaborate the tailoring and craftsmanship, the more expensive the clothing was and helped establish a reputation of wealth for the owner.

The richer you were the more expensive the fabrics used in your clothing, such as silk, brocade, velvet and cotton. Yes, cotton was very expensive then and was a heavily taxed import good (produced mainly in India). Because clothing would retain value and had significant societal importance, people could pawn them if hard times came. Even kings and queens were known to have pawned their clothing.

During the evolution of women's fashion in the European Renaissance, clothing for women went from three pieces (underskirt, bodice and robe) to one piece and then back to five or more pieces (skirt, underskirt, bodice, overbodice or vest, hoop and collar). This helped maintain Renaissance social structures since the lower classes did not wear the same fashions as the rich.

Women's hair coverings went from the 'pointed cone' style with no hair allowed to show, to the more popular light weight veil type trimmed with flowers or lace. Most women had very long hair and kept it braided. As time passed, a pointed hood-like covering was introduced, called a cap. In later years it became more optional to wear head or hair coverings at all. Weather and age determined if you covered your head. Older women wore caps or coverings, the younger ones didn't, unless the weather dictated otherwise.

Renaissance wedding dresses were made of rich brocades and rich jewel-toned velvets. Just like now, people wore their finest clothing to a wedding. The bride usually wore her hair down and sometimes added a circlet of flowers. White was not a wedding color until much later.

It was during these times that the beret was invented. They were highly decorated during the renaissance by either jewels or embroidery (not as plain as they are today). To show how tradition carries on, the beret had a string at the back to allow it to fit any head size. Hats today still have a small bow inside at the back.

Typical of many cultures, the ruling class often drove Renaissance fashion trends because they were the only ones who could afford the designer's prices. However, there was one very popular fashion trend which originated within the lower classes (commoners). They invented the technique of 'slashing'.

In an attempt to control fashion and restrict luxuries from the lower classes, the royals passed a law decreeing that commoners could only wear one color of clothing. This was very unpopular. To express their displeasure, the lower classes put two layers of fabric together and slashed the outer layer to allow the inner layer's contrasting color would show through. These slashes started out as small geometric shapes in the sleeves and skirts, but over time they progressed to long vertical slits with the inner fabric pulled out (sleeves) or the outer fabric sewn back toward the sides (skirts). Eventually, slashing techniques were used in all articles of clothing for both men and women, even shoes. This material was created by RealArmorOfGod.com for you, and we hope you enjoy our low prices.

Men's Renaissance clothing was also overhauled several times to keep up with the latest trends in fashion. In the European Renaissance the initial focus was towards richer fabrics which later gave way to a more 'square' fashion, and later a 'barrel' look. To achieve the appropriate square look, the vest or coat was widened at the shoulders and padded. Legs were covered with padded breeches and hosiery, shoes were square toed, and a wide brimmed hat was used to complete the look. Later, when the barrel look became in style, tailors started to view the human body as only having two parts, the shoulders and the hips. Modifications were made to heavily pad the middle of the vest (or jerkin) to make it look like you were wearing a barrel. Horsehair was used for the padding, and embroiderers would charge by the thread count of their work.

Hosiery was next on the agenda for an overhaul. Initially hosiery was either a sock like affair made from flax or wool (tweed) or it was knitted. Then came woven hosiery and "clocks" or patterns were introduced to smarten them up. These all gave way to the more familiar silk stockings.

Men and women both added either stand-up collars or ruffs to their necklines. Some people added metal stays called "attices" to their collars (attices were ornamental as well as useful). Padded buttons also came into play during the renaissance.

Women's Renaissance clothing kept in pace with the men's Renaissance clothing in many respects. As the square and barrel looks for men came into fashion, the women followed with pleated skirts, underskirts and finally hoops under their skirts (which stayed in the fashion world a long time).

This 16th century dress is a good example of the beautiful brocades and silks used during the Renaissance. It also shows the front "Slashing" which would show off the wonderful brown silk underskirt. A noblewoman or a rich merchant's wife might have worn this status symbol.

This 17th century dress shows the black chemise under the overdress or "robe". It also has the slashed front. The sleeves are the puffed top with the the pointed hand feature which was one of the new features to sleeves invented by an actress to hide a disfigured arm. Under this charming dress she would be wearing a whalebone corset, an underskirt, hosiery, and of course underwear. The puffed sleeves would have been adorned with jewels or embroidery.

The Elizabethan Royal Dress is showing the linen or cotton chemise/tunic or underdress and a rich brocade robe. It shows the stand-up collar, which could have been worn with or without a ruff or lace collar. This was truly a royal outfit in Renaissance fashion.

Dagger sleeves were invented to keep the sleeves out of the way when working yet still keep the hands and arms warm. The chemise with the laced bodice was traditional commoner wear.

The Gothic Dress has a black cord "girdle" and is an example of the extensive use of lace and silk. Sleeves were separate purchases and were not attached to most coats and dresses. Ladies' girdles were made of metal if they were rich – cord or a scarf if they were commoners.

For examples of historical period clothing as described within this article, please view our Clothing and Accessories.

Resources

Shoshone Medieval Teaching Tool
Franciscan University of Steubenville

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Renaissance Wedding	Irish Dress
Gothic Dress	White Chemise
17th Century Dress